Ten chefs to watch Leslie Brenner

Ten chefs to watch Leslie Brenner

Heading into the new decade, there are a number of chefs in and around Big D who seem to be bursting with fresh ideas. Here are ten I'll be keeping my eye on:

1. Christopher Short. I loved what he did at Bella, the beautiful-people spot near the Quandrangle, which he recently left. He'll be heading up the kitchen at Artin's Grill, with a planned opening later this month. Kim Pierce recently quoted him as saying it will be "an upscale, casual American grill with a huge, hickory-burning grill." His cooking is appealing and unpretentious, with solid technique and a focus on flavor; he does pastry as well as savory. Can't wait to see where he's going.

2. Jeff Harris. The East Texas-born UT graduate landed his first job four days out of culinary school, at Craft in New York, and Tom Colicchio made him top toque at Craft Dallas earlier this year. Harris has a terrific feel for produce and fish (I loved his halibut with butter beans, crave his artichoke risotto with roasted garlic). He's quite the talent, bound to make a lot of noise in this town sooner or later.

3. David Uygur. Big D's foodie community was pretty heartbroken when Lola, where Uygur was chef, closed in the fall. But Uygur has promised to return, with plans to open a small Italian restaurant, where he'll feature house-made pastas and house-cured salumi. (His cured meats at Lola were outstanding.) It'll be fascinating to see his what he does as he lights out on his own.

4. Molly McCook. The Louisiana-born, California-trained chef made a terrific debut at Ellerbe Fine Foods, which owns with her childhood friend, Richard King. Anyone who can deliver such compelling cooking right out of the gate is worth watching.

5. Randall Copeland and Nathan Tate. At Ava in Rockwall, they cook as a team, so they share an entry. My experiences at Ava were uneven, but these young chefs have some good ideas -- I still remember their wonderful wood-roasted pork chop with Canton peaches. Like McCook, they revere great produce and they're devoted to working with farmers, which benefits everyone, so as they gain experience, it'll be interesting to see how they progress.

6. Tre Wilcox. It was a relatively quiet year for the one-time "Top Chef" star, who has been practicing his craft at Loft 610 in Plano. But he's got more than that cooking -- he and Loft 610 owner Brian Twomey plan to open a more chef-driven restaurant later this year in Highland Park. Though Wilcox told me he draws a percentage at Loft 610, this, he says will be his first experience as a real chef-owner. I doubt I'm the only one who will be excited to see what he does.

7. Sara C. Johannes. Wolfgang Puck is notoriously good to work for (so my L.A. sources have long told me); therefore I'd be very surprised if this talented chef leaves the fold anytime in the foreseeable future. But clearly she's got the chops. Will her skill and ideas continue to develop at Five Sixty? If so, she could gain the kind of amazing but somewhat-under-the-radar status that Lee Hefter, the brilliant execu-chef who heads Spago Beverly Hills, enjoys. The kind of chef where you absolutely must stop by and see (and taste) what's happening on her plates.

8. Kelly Hightower. The former Hattie's chef, who has been charming diners at Kavala in Oak Cliff, reportedly plans to turn the Mediterranean Grill into a tapas bar. If the rumors are true, he also plans to be involved in a music venue with an international soul fusion menu. I still have not dined at Kavala (I'd better hurry, I guess!), but anyone who gets that much rumor-buzz merits keeping an eye on.

9. Tim Byers. True, the former Stephan Pyles chef has made a lot of noise lately at Smoke, the Oak Cliff restaurant he co-owns with Christopher Jeffers and Chris Zielke. But the kid's a creative whiz, and no doubt he'll continue to impress and surprise -- starting with the "guerrilla restaurant" the trio plans to open in mid-January.

10. Bruno Davaillon. Sure, we're watching the new chef at The Mansion. Isn't everyone?

OK, whom are you watching?
EATS | dallasnews.com (29 December 2009)
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